African Air Adventure TAA 11: June 2011

Tuesday 28 June 2011

Skeleton Coast - Swakopmund




The owl was staring at me when I closed my comfortable shelter at the Kepinski. A short walk up the hill and a feast of protein was waiting for me.
As the owl went to sleep, and a bunch of squirrels hopped up and down the table looking suspicious for our charity.
A few steps towards East and my horse with wings was waiting with a surprise. ICE. The last thing I was expecting to see on my wing in Africa. In fact it was chilling cold. Who said Africa is hot?     









With the help of the Hotel staff, an African bush de-ice was improvised, and the plane ready again. Skeleton Coast heading 270 than down the coast until Swakopmund


©NunoCoimbra2011




©NunoCoimbra2011



©NunoCoimbra2011

In the year 1486 the first Europeans landed at the coast of Namibia. The Portuguese Diego Cao set up a stone cross at his landing-point, the present-day Cape Cross as a sign of taking possession of the new discovered land through Portugal. Different hiking movements of African people led to the settlement of the Ovambo in the north, of the Himba in the Kaokoveld and the Herero in the middle of the country. Between Nama and Herero it resulted thereby in embittered tribal wars. In the  19th century numerous missionaries began their  activity in different areas of the country. Walvis Bay was used by European mariners and in particular by whale catchers as a port and taken in possession through Great Britain in 1878. At the Skeleton Coast numerous ships smashed; who had the luck to escape for the wet element, died of thirst in the desert of Namib, reaching onto the coast.


©NunoCoimbra2011



©NunoCoimbra2011


The Skeleton Coast (German: Skelettküste) is the northern part of the Atlantic coast of Namibia and south of Angola from the Kunene River south to the Swakop River, although the name is sometimes used to describe the entire Namib Desert coast. The Bushmen of the Namibian interior called the region "The Land God Made in Anger", while Portuguese sailors once referred to it as "The Gates of Hell".
On the coast the upwelling of the cold Benguela current gives rise to dense ocean fogs (called "cassimbo" by the Angolans) for much of the year. The winds blow from land to sea, rain fall rarely exceeds 10 millimetres (0.39 in) annually and the climate is inhospitable. There is a constant, heavy surf on the beaches. In the days of human-powered boats it was possible to get ashore through the surf but impossible to launch from the shore. The only way out was by going through a marsh hundreds of miles long and only accessible through a hot and arid desert.
The coast is named for the bleached whale and seal bones which covered the shore when the whaling industry was still active, as well as the skeletal shipwrecks caused by rocks offshore in the fog. More than a thousand vessels of various sizes and areas litter the coast. Notable wrecks in the region include the Eduard Bohlen, the Otavi, the Dunedin Star, and Tong Taw.
The coast is generally soft, occasionally relieved by rocky outcrops. The southern section consists of gravel plains, while north of Terrace Bay the landscape is dominated by high sand dunes.



©NunoCoimbra2011



©NunoCoimbra2011



©NunoCoimbra2011



©NunoCoimbra2011





The fleet parked at Swakopmund. A completed unexpected organized place in the middle of sand dunes washed by the all mighty, but well known to us Atlantic Ocean. 
I start to feel a strange desperation. The adventure is close to its end.






























Saturday 18 June 2011

Mokuti Lodge Namibia


Breakfast on an airplane wing, a good way to begin our day.


After the thrills of Livingstone we headed to Rundo in Nabimia, where a Portuguese friend, ex Portuguese Air Force was waiting for us. He arranged fuel and emigration at the airport. Then we moved to town for lunch.
We have no words to express our gratitude in the way José Pais Machado and his wife Paula received us. It was truly a gift that we received presented by these fellow Countryman. The lunch was outstanding, followed by local folklore much appreciated by all. Thank you very much.
Happy with the refuel, both crew and airplane, we set course to Kepinski Mokuti Lodge. The entrance to Etosha, and home to the San people.

©NunoCoimbra2011

©NunoCoimbra2011




On the next day we went to the Ombili school.










Tens of thousands of years ago, the SAN went in small groups through the desert, savannah and mountain landscapes of the entire southern Africa, where they left their magnificent works of art on rocks and in small caves. The hunters and gatherers were not a homogenous group, but culturally different.


They lived in geographically separated areas,spoke different languages ​​and had different customs.

Their Culture was gradually destroyed. In 1649 noted a certain Jean-BaptisteTavernier: "When they speak, they fart with their tongues in their mouths". Largely hunters, their way of life changed dramatically when hunting became forbidden.The Ombili Project, helps them with the new lifestyle, teaching them agriculture among other things.

The school, a private German project, tries to provide a better integration in modern society where they usually are discriminated due to their size (usually not more than 1,5m as adult) and their "odd" tongue clicking.




The Ombili choir has voices from heaven, absolutely marvelous.




















































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